Note: the toilet paper is not perforated, something I'm starting to think is an unnecessary practice in the US. Nate asked me to write down that he disagrees. Strongly.
Nate and I watched the sunrise through the window from bed this morning. I think I must be the luckiest person in the world.
We took our time having a leisurely breakfast and reading/writing on the pool deck before going for what would be a very long walk.
Breakfast:
More crepes with papaya jam, a slightly different kind of andazi that was sugared and very greasy - this one crescent shaped instead of round like yesterday's - at least four cups of the nutty coffee wih milk, and this time I attempted a savory crepe with tomatoes, onion, green peppers, and chilli sauce (though I think the chilli sauce was just ketchup w/ tabasco in it)
We sunscreened up and headed south along the beach, having quickly reviewed a few restaurants in our guide book. I wore my skimpiest black string bikini but covered up with a pink linen button down shirt and a sheer white and yellow sarong. The ocean was unbelievably calm. I've never seen anything like it.
We walked for (we think) about two hours taking our time to stop and snap photos, pick up shells, and just check out the scenery. The beach was pretty deserted for most of the walk, with the exception of one strip where an all-inclusive resort has been established. We read that this resort imports everything, even food, from outside of Tanzania and does very little to contribute to the local economy. We also passed several resorts that were completely closed until August, when more Europeans take their vacations. One long stretch of beach was especially deserted and pretty littered with seaweed, ocean detritus, and garbage. We thought there must be a village nearby. There were a couple of places where a path appeared from the edge of the beach disappearing into the woods beyond, including one rather ominous one where two huge sea turtle shells were lying in the sand among some cast-off fishing baskets and other garbage.
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durian shells and seaweed
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We finally stopped at a place called Kilimani Kwetu, which was right on the beach and had several lounge chairs with tables under umbrellas. The place was also a resort, though it didn't seem to have many customers - in fact only one woman was sleeping in a lounge chair nearby. Otherwise we were the only westerners there.
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| not a bad view! oh, and the ocean's nice, too. |
Lunch:
Nate ordered what I wish I had: fish masala with rice. I ordered a banana pancake and an omelet in hopes that it would be the fried potato omelet I've heard is common locally. Unfortunately it was just a plain fried egg with some sliced tomatoes on top, and they were out of bananas so they made a mango pancake instead. We both drank Kilimanjaro's.
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| Kilimani Kwetu |
The walk back was much much faster b/c
a) we were walking with the wind
b) I had my fill of seashells (almost), and
c) we were sunburned and needed to hurry!
We found a shady spot back at the hotel and spent a little time in the pool before grabbing coffee and tea. During tea we met a German family who was staying in Dongwe for a few days following a safari.
Side note: as friendly as the locals are, the other tourists tend to be pretty keep-to-themselves. The only reason we met the Germans is because when they asked if a chair next to us was free and we said yes, the mother thanked me and I responded "bitta." This started what turned out to be a very nice and lengthy conversation. They and Blake were the only other guests to introduce themselves to us or even do more than nod in our direction during our entire stay.
We showered and dressed for supper, which was to be a buffet. I felt like dressing up a little for our last night in Dongwe, so I wore a full length strapless brown and pink cotton dress and gold strappy sandals.
Supper:
Beef kebabs, spinach cooked in coconut milk, mango (not pictured), banana, cucumber salad, lamb curry w/ rice, bread, penne w/ marinara, Kilimanjaro beer
Tomorrow: Fumba!
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